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Thursday, July 1, 2010

TRAVELS WITH JIMMY TEE - Santa Fe, New Mexico

One of our favorite areas is Santa Fe – the capital of New Mexico has a sophisticated community with a vibrant lifestyle, is a major center for artists (with a focus on painting and sculpture), celebrates the native Indian culture, encompasses both a Southwestern–Mexican cuisine as well as elegant dining in nationally ranked restaurants, and is ringed by the Sangre de Cristo mountains (which contain all of New Mexico’s 13,000+ peaks).
From our home in San Diego, Santa Fe is an easy trip for a four-day weekend, and we took advantage of this over Memorial Day (plus an extra vacation day).  Over four days we had a significant hike (to Nambe Lake), enjoyed several excellent meals (details below), bought (reasonably- priced) jewelry, and had a delightful afternoon in a spectacular spa. You can experience the same, and all without breaking the bank.
Here is what we did:  First of all are the accommodations – there are wonderful world-class inns in Santa Fe, including the Inn at Loretto, Bishop’s Lodge Resort, the Inn on the Alameda, and the Inn of the Anasazi.  All provide excellent accommodations, at excellent (to them) prices.  We always drop by several of these facilities to have a glass of wine (the fireplace lounge at Bishop’s Lodge is a favorite), but we don’t stay there.  Our preference is for accommodations in private casitas, which generally are an adjunct to the owner’s home.  Not only are the casitas less expensive (we prefer to spend our money on elegant dinners), but they provide an element of interaction with local residents, they usually have kitchen facilities, they often reside in the countryside surrounding Santa Fe, and a typical cost would be in the $80-$150 per night range.  Suggestions for in town would include B&Bs such as the Pueblo Bonito; for more general private owner’s casitas, we conduct a search on VRBO.com. 
I might add here that we always rent a car when traveling to Santa Fe.  Fly in to Albuquerque, rent a car, and drive about one hour or so North to Santa Fe. For the return trip, be warned – there are very few gas stations near the Albuquerque airport – be sure to fill up before you return the car.
We have done a number of hikes in the Santa Fe area, including a wonderful experience on a sunny winter day when we hiked for about five miles in the snow up Big Tesuque Trail.  Solitude, icicles, delightful forest hike.  We did it, and you can do it!  These hikes can be done by anyone in reasonable physical shape – we are at a somewhat advanced age and are far from competitive athletes, but we do maintain an active, healthy lifestyle.  You can do it, too!
Our hike up towards Nambe Lake started off uphill from the trailhead at 10,400 ft.  We climbed approximately 600 ft, then began a 2-3 mile gentle downhill through an enchanting spruce forest.  At the trail junction to Nambe Lake, we began a steep uphill climb along Nambe Creek, passing numerous waterfalls along the way and spending much of the time above 11,000 ft.  I might mention that we basically were alone with nature on this hike – we passed only six other hikers in five hours on the trail.  There was gentle rain on the return (be sure to have rain gear in your daypack), but we were prepared and got back to our car in good order.
Our standard procedure is to enjoy the hike, not to set any records for effort.  We take many pictures along the trail and always have a picnic lunch  -- often with a bottle of wine for enjoyment at our destination.  And we do take care to be prepared, always carrying the Sierra Club’s (or Girl Scouts’) Ten Essentials.  Here’s another valuable hint – always ensure that your electrolyte balance is maintained.  We have had excellent results with Bill Gookin’s Vitalyte and usually take two or three quarts for a day hike.  Other suggestions would include GU and ShotBlocks.  For a trail snack, we favor a simple mixture of cashews and dried cherries. 
Returning to our casita, we change for our dinner at the Coyote CafĂ©, a lively, elegant, wonderfully modern restaurant.  Our choice is to sit at the bar, which features both an engaging bartender and the open kitchen.  Starting with an excellent Lobster Cognac Bisque, I then have my favorite Spicy Fire White Prawns, which combine the best of fresh seafood with Southwestern flavors.  On previous occasions we have had the Elk Tenderloin and the Baked Salmon – perfectly done each time.
The next morning is spent in the numerous art galleries on Canyon Road, where everything from traditional Western paintings and sculptures to radical “far-out” modern exhibitions may be found.  Canyon Road is a mile of small buildings and houses, each of which is an art gallery with a unique take on what constitutes art.  Some of it is quite appealing, but my impression of other productions is that a third-grader with a full helping of chocolate could do a better job!
The afternoon is a special treat – a private outdoor spa at Ten Thousand Waves.  This is the premier spa in Santa Fe, constructed in a Japanese style on a hillside outside of town.  We reserved the Waterfall Pool, which provides a large, stone outdoor Jacuzzi on a deck surrounded by pine trees, a cold plunge fed by the waterfall, a private Sauna, and perfect solitude.  It is a wonderful experience and definitely is worth a priority place on your list.
Tonight we return to Canyon Road for dinner at Geronimo’s, a nationally ranked restaurant in an old house halfway up the road.  It is a truly magnificent establishment, and with limited seating (only 18 tables) reservations are a necessity.  This evening we had Roasted Butternut Squash Bisque with lobster, followed by Alaskan Halibut and Diver Sea Scallops.  The dishes not only were delicious but also were presented in an elegant fashion with a small salad bite here and a complimenting sauce there.  A truly memorable experience.
Starting the morning with Starbucks, we proceed to the Plaza to meet the Indians seated on the sidewalk along the Palace of the Governors and to review their displays of necklaces and bracelets made of turquoise and silver.  In our opinion this is the best jewelry market in Santa Fe, and we have bought a number of pieces from the Indians – several of whom have been selling jewelry there for decades!  The pieces are genuine, the designs are unique, and the prices are fair – plus there is an element of history here.
After an outside courtyard lunch at the Pink Adobe (the oldest restaurant in Santa Fe, dating from the 1840’s), we drive back to Albuquerque for our return flight to San Diego.
There is much more to Santa Fe than described above, but this may give you a flavor of a most enjoyable four day weekend.

To Additional Adventures in Healthy Living,
Jimmy Tee

your comments are always welcome.

Tuesday, June 29, 2010

TRAVELS WITH JIMMY TEE - San Fransisco Tidbits

Almost everyone has been to San Francisco a number of times, so I am not going to describe the City by the Bay – rather, in this short article, I will offer a few dining suggestions which will enhance any visit.  As you know, San Francisco is an exciting destination, with a number of the nation’s top restaurants covering a multitude of cuisines and price points.  Here is where we ate on our last visit.

This was a brief trip – just an early morning Saturday flight up from San Diego and a late evening Sunday flight back.  A short stay, but what a great time, with a wonderful variety of dining experiences.

From the airport we went directly to the Palace Hotel, the pre-eminent San Francisco landmark for over 100 years.  After checking in, we confirmed our reservation for breakfast/brunch at The Garden Court.  This spectacular setting is one of the most beautiful rooms anywhere, with classic chandeliers, a ceiling of stained glass, large round tables spaced comfortably apart, and palm trees scattered throughout.  I had my favorite breakfast of Eggs Benedict and Orange Juice, but there also is a full buffet available.  Yes, The Garden Court is a bit expensive, but with great service, excellent food, and a fabulous setting, it definitely is worth it to splurge!
After perusing the boutiques around Union Square, we taxied to Swan Oyster Depot for a late afternoon treat.  Swan’s is another San Francisco institution, having been in business for almost 100 years.  The setting is the opposite of the Palace Hotel – just a narrow, nondescript room with a counter, some 21 bar stools, and a long line waiting to get in.  Of the various times that we have been to Swan’s, our average wait was over 30 minutes (you definitely need to allow for this).  However, once seated, the fun begins.  Oysters on the half shell and a beer are all we ever order, but we order several helpings with different oyster varieties.  Other guests partake of their crab, shrimp, lobster, and clam chowder dishes.  I happily recommend Swan Oyster Depot for an intriguing experience and a chance to savor a unique part of the San Francisco dining world.

The next day, after our morning Starbuck’s (one on every corner), we went to Yank Sing for Dim Sum (as I remember from Hong Kong) or Deem Sum (as they display it).  You are in a casual Chinese restaurant, but one which has a James Beard Award, a Zagat rating, and a Michelin Guide commentary.  Just peruse the dishes as they come by on the carts and select what appeals to you.  A marvelous selection of delectable Chinese hors d’oeurves, all reasonably priced – until you get the final bill and find that you have ordered twenty wonderful selections at $5 each!  A great taste treat, but do not let your eyes overpower your stomach.

Finally, I wanted to offer one other suggestion for a casual evening which we have enjoyed several times – Morton’s Steakhouse.  It’s just off Union Square and offers the usual presentation of huge servings of beef and accoutrements.  However, while we do partake of the formal meal, on this occasion we sat at the bar off the main dining room and ordered Lobster Bisque followed by Jumbo Lump Crab Cakes.  This is one of the best combinations ever, in our view.  A truly wonderful meal in elegant surroundings --  casual but refined (!) – and about 1/3 the cost of the protein-carbo packed main courses!  Give it a try – it’s a great way to visit Morton’s.

Obviously there is much more to San Francisco than described above, but this may give you a flavor of a most enjoyable brief weekend visit.

To Additional Adventures in Healthy Living,
Jimmy Tee

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